“Was there any place that didn’t live up to your expectations?” Trevor asked as we were sitting one night, reflecting on the audacious travel route we’d wrapped this year.
“Yes,” I replied too quickly. “Bali.” But, it’s complicated. Because Bali – in all of its unexpectedness – is also the one destination that I’d return to over and over again if given the opportunity.
Before we arrived in Bali, Indonesia, I had Instagram-fueled visions of exotic beaches, gushing waterfalls, and lush forests with monkeys swinging from vine to vine. And while all of those things technically existed, none played a role in my first impression of the country, which unfurled bit by bit, as we arrived late at night to the airport, piled our luggage into a van, and drove through impossibly narrow streets to our vacation rental in Sanur, on the east side of the island.
In fact, I recall – somewhat blankly and exhaustion-laden – wondering if Bali would prove to be an epic miscalculation. After all, Bali was where we planned to spend the longest stretch of our trip: six weeks spread across three different areas, all unique but located within an hour or two of one another. And on that drive from the airport, what I primarily registered of the country was congested and lane-less seeming roadways crammed with cars and motorbikes, an impressively confusing number of gigantic mythological statues and heat. Sticky, humid and slightly oppressive heat.
And yet, it only took a few days to realize that while Bali was not at all what I was expecting, it was better than I could imagine. It wasn’t the beaches, waterfalls or monkeys that made the place so magical; it was the people, the ritual, the hum of daily life contentedly buzzing all around us.
Over our six week stay, we spent time in three very different – yet all urban – parts of the island:
- Sanur: On the east side of Bali, this city is known for its family-friendly and sleepy vibes. In fact, I saw it called “Snore” more than once in my research. It’s a the most walkable place that we stayed, which is hilarious, because when we arrived we spent days griping about its lack of walkability. In Sanur, you’ll find a buzzing main road lined with shops and restaurants – and hotels like the Hyatt Regency and Andaz – and shallow beaches that change dramatically with the tide.
- Ubud: In central Bali, Ubud is a twisty jungle retreat. Outside of the city center, there’s nothing close to sidewalks, but you’ll find yoga studios, vegan restaurants, co-working spaces and the like aplenty. With this as a home base, you’re also closer to the iconic rice fields and other notable sites, like waterfalls and temples.
- Canggu: Of all the places we went, this region on the west side of island was by far the most westernized. Big, deep beaches give way to the thumping bass of nightclubs. High-end boutiques and juice shops aren’t hard to find, nor are salons or yoga studios. And surf schools, like the one Trevor loved, call this side of the island home.
In short summary, if you’re looking to relax with a young family, I’d stay in Sanur; if you’re a yogi that’s yearning to zen out, I’d head to Ubud; and if you want to shop and party, head right to Canggu. From each of these places, you can day trip around the island to cross items off your list and experience all that Bali has to offer. The cleansing waters of Pura Tirtha Empul, for instance (which I’d recommend, even though water snakes slithered into the pools while I bathed – eek!); the gorgeous and historic Jatiluwih Rice Terraces; the shimmering waters of Crystal Bay Beach on Nusa Penida; or even the Bali Zoo’s Breakfast with Orangutans, which our kids adored.
One thing to note, however, is that wherever you stay, I’ve come to believe that the accommodation and its exact location will play an outsized role in your travel experience. The options, from resorts to Airbnbs, are vast and cater to uniquely different audiences. As a family traveling with an infant and toddler, we had an admittedly smaller pool of vacation rentals to choose from given that they a) had to fit within our budget b) include A/C and c) offer a comfortable level of security around the pool. And yet, we truly loved each place we stayed for fairly diverse reasons.
My biggest advice is to take seriously and strategically the place you choose to make your “home base.”
And yet … know this: Wherever you are in Bali, you’ll find deep-rooted and respected culture. Kind and genuine people. Sacred and stunning temples.
Contentedness.
Consider yourself warned. We found it to be contagious.
SANUR: Family Friendly on Bali’s East Coast
With a long, paved beach path – lined with hotels and restaurants in many areas – Sanur is a dream for parents vacationing with strollers in tow. We found ourselves walking the path nearly every day; Trevor would run here in the mornings, we’d lazily plod along before stopping for an afternoon dip, and we’d return for a nighttime stroll that led to dinner. During our visit in April, it was never obnoxiously busy. In fact, we often wondered where everyone was. Restaurants always had availability. Nightlife was hard to come by. And shops closed up early. But in terms of convenience, this path was the best spot to be. Smooth, wide and endless, it was an appreciated amenity among Indonesia’s not-so-stroller-friendly “sidewalks.”
For three weeks, we stayed in this Sanur Airbnb, which we loved. It offered a compact but functional living area and two spacious bedrooms, air conditioning throughout (hard to come by in this area!), and a fantastic private pool. Nestled off a residential side road, it’s part of a small collection of vacation rentals, and as such, we benefited from on-site staff, who popped in daily to tidy up, replace paper products and leave us with some bottled waters.
It may have been the sleepy pace of the town, the friendly staff or the fact that it was a lengthy stay, but Sanur came to feel like home. It never felt overtly touristy to me, despite the fact that it is, of course, a tourist-fueled destination – as is all of Bali. Day by day, our own pace slowed to match that of the city; we spent days splashing in the pool, treking to the grocery store up the road, cautiously stepping over the offerings placed outside business doors, visiting the beach, partaking in far-too-frequent and insanely affordable massages, and venturing to the Night Market.
Here, a round-up of our favorite spots: Massages at the zen and lovely Koa Shala Spa; decadent brunch at the Hyatt Regency Bali; Kids Soho play place for too hot or rainy days; the Sindhu Night Market is hands-down our favorite spot for authentic, easy meals and local ambiance (you must, MUST order the Nutella dessert at Kedai Roponggi); dinner at Andaz Bali’s beach restaurant; a day spent at Sundays Beach Club (note that it’s an hour drive away, but worthwhile!) and Shotgun Social Bali, a lively bar and restaurant with a full playground for kids.
UBUD: The Lush and Lively Heart of Bali
Without a coast to naturally determine the boundaries of the city, Ubud is a maze of twisty roads and paths, dead-ending and surrounded by gorgeous rice field terraces. This was the place that felt closest to the Bali I’d imagined; lush and a bit unnerving, honestly. But, balanced out by a plethora of wellness focused opportunities – spas, vegan dining, yoga studios, and the like.
We struggled to find family friendly lodging options here (of particular concern was locating vacation rentals that offer some security around the pools that nearly all of them offer), but landed on this open-air villa that featured a pool gate, trampoline, air conditioned bedrooms and cooked-to-order daily breakfast.
Without proper sidewalks, it was difficult to explore beyond our small neighborhood, which was essentially the narrow car-free path that led from the main road to rice fields, and was filled along each side with doorways to walled-in vacation rentals, convenience shops or warungs, and small restaurants. When we did manage to taxi into the town center, traffic was horrendous, so we mainly kept the areas in which we were comfortable walking. With this in mind, Ubud felt like a very different place than Sanur. It was complex and interesting and a bit chaotic, but all very cool. (Best, I’d guess, experienced without kids and most definitely without strollers.)
Rounding up our favorite Ubud spots: Alchemy Bali for delicious vegan eats; Zest as a very vibey and sprawling dinner hot spot; the Monkey Forest for up close views of all of the area’s wild, roaming monkeys; Jungle Gold Bali for chocolate tasting; Green Kubu Cafe for a family-friendly and IG-worthy lunch spot; and not surprisingly, the Sayan Night Market for more authentic and local-laden dining.
CANGGU: Nightlife, Shopping and Bali Beach Life
The most westernized of our Balinese destinations was hands down the Canggu area. Picture deep stretches of sandy beaches lined with thumping day and night clubs, just yards from more bustling bars and restaurants, modern coffee shops and high-end boutiques featuring price tags on par with those found in America’s upscale shopping malls.
We stayed a bit off the beaten path in Berawa, a roughly 25-minute walk to the beach, in a minimal and chic villa (that we loved!). Here, we were within easy walking distance to restaurants and shops, gourmet grocers and more. But most importantly, when Ella Jo became sick, we had an extremely helpful host that was able to make invaluable recommendations on doctors for her quick care.
In Berawa, we spent days playing in the pool, walking to and working in local quiet cafes, exploring come dinnertime, and ending nearly every day on beach bags in the sand, sipping something while we watched the sun dip into the sea. It was a special stop, and like Ubud, we left so much on the table in terms of exploration.
Favorite spots in this area included: Sababa restaurant for Middle Eastern dining (which Trevor and I escaped to on more than one night – it was so good); Milk and Madu family-friendly-yet-chic restaurants with play areas; Milu by Nook for its cocktails and gorgeous rice field views; ParkLife Bali – an organized kids play space and restaurant; Hotel Tugu for open-air yoga classes; and Seaside Tribe Bali, where Trevor found his dream surf experience.
A Few Last Thoughts
There’s just so much to say and share about Bali that it’s difficult to sum it up in one blog post. But there’s one thing that I do know: For folks who have never been, it can seem a bit overwhelming to navigate the ins and outs and dos and don’ts as you begin research and plotting a grand Balinese adventure. I found tremendous insight in the Rolling Along with Kids in Bali Facebook Group, an active community full of up-to-date tips and recommendations for families traveling with littles. (Side note: I’d recommend searching Facebook Groups for any destination you’re traveling to – with our without children – for useful information and the latest updates.)
Facebook Groups also serve as a great space for word of mouth recommendations. Because we didn’t rent a car in Bali and weren’t comfortable with the baby on a motorbike, we relied on hired drivers when we were venturing farther than our legs could take us. In Bali, several companies offer day rates for drivers and guides that will take you wherever you’d like to go and often offer guided experiences once you’ve arrived. On our day trip to Nusa Penida, this was extremely helpful, as our driver coordinated ferry tickets for us, as well as a driver on the island. (You can also check out Airbnb Experiences to find drivers, guides and activities, with plenty of reviews to read through beforehand.)
Via the Facebook Group, we also found the woman who served as a nanny to our kids during our visit. I was shocked to learn that she was happy to travel to each of the cities we stayed in (this is the norm, oftentimes), to support us with daily childcare. After six weeks, she really felt like part of the family, and to this day is the reason that Ella Jo’s wave hello is specifically Indonesian in style – one of my very favorite things!
WHEW. If you’ve read this far, you might as well hop over to Instagram and check out Stories to see some extra glimpses of our time in Bali. I have three different Stories series, labeled Bali (Sanur), Bali (Ubud) and Bali (Canggu), that highlight some of our day-in-the-life moments in Indonesia. And – no surprise – my heart just swelled four sizes going back and watching them myself. When do I get to go back?!
Departing DTW 