Slow Travel on New Zealand’s South Island

Mountains that feel magical. Remote ocean stretches. A sense of adventure that seems to waft in the crisp air. New Zealand: a veritable playground.

It had been seven years since we spent half of our honeymoon exploring the country’s South Island, and here we were, heading back with two kids in tow, to retrace our steps but with more days (and less time, ironically, as full-time parents) in our itinerary. While we spent a long while debating whether we’d stay on the North or South Island, or both, we ended up choosing to return to the South, admittedly leaning into our familiarity with it before our travels would take us into the uncharted territory that would be Bali.

Our visit took place during the month of March, when the Southern Hemisphere is just transitioning from summer to fall – think a slight evening chill, hikes in which you slowly peel layers as the sun rises higher, a few crunchy leaves underfoot. And our route snaked up the South Island, beginning inland, perched alongside Queenstown’s Lake Wakatipu until we ended oceanside in Kaikoura.

In hindsight, having toted two little ones around the globe, I can confidently say that New Zealand is a family-friendly destination. The country is exactly what you make of it, offering up its natural bounties to anyone that’s eager to explore. (In my mind, I’m comparing our “free reign” in New Zealand to our route through the European Alps – which took place months later – and wherein every outdoor adventure came with an steep entry fee.)

Our route, driven in a rental SUV, looked like this:

• Queenstown – Two weeks
  • Milford Sound – One overnight stay
• Lake Hawea / Wanaka – One week
• Mount Cook – One night stay
• Kaikoura – One week

Queenstown

The perfect basecamp. Nestled beside The Remarkables mountain range and on Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown offers the ideal first glimpse of New Zealand. It blends everything you’d want – a charming downtown packed with apres-hike cocktail bars, a beautiful lakefront with the most picturesque playground and cafe, and proximity to a gazillion outdoor excursions. (It’s also just minutes from the Gibbston Valley wine region, wink-wink.)

The walkable downtown itself is at lake level, but the city stretches uphill – quite steeply! – so it’s worth looking for lodging that’s nearby and double checking its elevation. We had rented a car, but knew we’d want to be able to easily walk to and from town, and were thrilled that we found this Queenstown Airbnb property, which offered a garage and a reasonable path to and fro. Ascending and descending the side street to the condo door was laughably steep, but a short distance to manage. What we really loved were the epic views from the patio, where Mack played with his firetruck and I sipped tea in the afternoons.

We had no trouble filling time during our two-week stay. Here are a few of our recommendations:

• EAT: Start your day with a reservation at The Boat Shed Cafe and Bistro for lakeside brunch and order up “fluffies” for the little ones (foamed milk with sprinkles in a coffee cup); wait in line at the much-acclaimed Fergburger for a juicy to-go burger or pop into Fergbaker for pastries to take down to the water’s edge; end your day at Patagonia Ice Creamery and Chocolaterie where you can dip gelato bars into melted chocolate and top with hazelnuts, sprinkles and more. (And if it’s Saturday, swing into Remarkables Market near the airport for a small, farmer’s market style stop with artisan cheeses, sandwich vendors, and produce.)
• PLAY: I could write an entire blog post on New Zealand’s playgrounds, which are far more fun than most here in the U.S., in my opinion, while also happening to be placed in the most photogenic locations on Earth. Downtown, along the waterfront, you’ll find the Bathhouse Playground with its daringly tall slide and nearby cafe. A bit outside of town, you’ll find Hanley’s Farm Playground with gorgeous mountain views, sand pit, trampolines and a circular swing set. And a bit further up the road, Jack Tewa Park Playground, which overlooks a vast soccer field and roaming sheep and boasts my favorite zip line of the trip. Visit each one if you can!
• HIKE: Take half a day and drive out to the quiet and supremely scenic Glenorchy and Glenorchy Lagoon Walkway, where you can pack a picnic lunch and then spend one or two hours soaking up the scenery on a leisurely walk; or back in town, take an hour to stroll Queenstown Gardens and the peninsula lakefront path; otherwise, pull up the AllTrails app and be amazed at the number of hikes and climbs within reach. That’s what we did – an array of lesser-known hikes down to rocky beaches or small mountain summits – squeezed into an afternoon or evening. There are hundreds to choose from (like Mt. Dewar), and they’re all gorgeous.
• DAY TRIP: A quaint pioneer town outside of Queenstown, Arrowtown is as charming as it gets and less than an hour drive. Stroll the main street and pop into Remarkable Sweet Shop, grab a bite at Provisions Arrowtown and then head to the cozy Blue Door Bar – one of our favorite honeymoon haunts – for libations. Also located nearby is the casual sophistication of New Zealand’s Gibbston Valley wine region. It’s a growing area with a solid selection of vineyards and tasting rooms. Our kiddos kept us from fully appreciating this opportunity, but we did spend an afternoon at Cargo Cellar Door and loved that there was space for Mack to run around (and a trampoline, too!) while we sipped vino atop bean bags outside.
• MILFORD SOUND: It can theoretically be done as a day trip, but at four hour’s drive each way, it makes for one looooong day. We debated adding this stop into our itinerary, but ultimately ended up going for it – booking an Airbnb in Te Anau (my favorite in New Zealand!) to break up the drive – and heading to the legendary sound for a boat tour. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but here’s my synopsis: Milford Sound is a stunning ocean-fed inlet and UNESCO site that you can best see by water. While there are lengthy hikes available, most folks drive in, hop on a boat and then leave afterward. You won’t find restaurants or lodging, just a cruise-ship-like terminal along the water servicing tourists. We opted for a smaller boat tour with Cruise Milford and really enjoyed it, as well as the scenic drive to and from Queenstown. As long as you prepare yourself logistically, it’s a great addition to a Queenstown trip.

Lake Wanaka

We didn’t venture far from Queenstown to get to our second stop. About an hour drive away, Wanaka is an “up north” type town – located on a lake with the same name – with a slightly sleepier vibe, but plenty to see and do. We’d spent two weeks in a fairly urban environment, so it felt right to get back to nature. Because Lake Wanaka’s accommodations felt a little too neighborhood-ish for us, we booked a more remote Airbnb near Lake Hawea (with goats!), a 15-minute drive from Wanaka.

If quiet was what we wanted, quiet was what we got. Lake Hawea was even smaller than I’d imagined; and our Airbnb, up a precarious dirt road on a steep hill, ensured that we were far from even the one-restaurant, one-gas station village. But what it lacked in bustle, it made up for in beauty. Walking the lakeside trail, we marveled at what this tiny town would be if it were located in the U.S. – filled with souvenir shops, branded tee shirts, chain restaurants and many, many more vacation rentals.

This pocket of peace worked within our slow travel itinerary, but I wouldn’t recommend making it a travel base for trips shorter than a week or two. Instead, you can plan a day trip to visit our favorite spots from Queenstown:

• EAT: You’ll find a cute coffee trailer parked at the gas station; that’s Mo’s and you should grab a cuppa and a muffin when you pass; otherwise, stop by Pembroke Patisserie on your way into Wanaka. I made many a stop here, for lunch sandwiches, hiking snacks or an indulgent breakfast of old-fashioned donuts. But our most memorable meal was at Hook Wanaka, where Ella Jo threw an epic tantrum and Trevor caught his own salmon in the restaurant’s river. The staff promptly filleted it and served up the freshest sushi we’ve ever had. Lastly, you’ll want to grab a drink at the cozy and historic Cardrona Hotel.
• HIKE: If you make it to Lake Hawea, you’ll find a lovely walkway along the water, but if you only have time for Wanaka, head to the lake for a short walk to get a glimpse of “That Wanaka Tree,” a crooked willow growing defiantly out in the lake. If you can find more time, longer hikes will deliver even more impressive views. Makarora River’s Blue Pools are about an hour away and reveal themselves after an easy 30-minute hike (don’t be startled by the brave folks jumping off the suspension bridge into the water; that’s normal, I’m told). Or hike upward via the Diamond Lake Track near town and reap the reward of expansive views. While the full hike is challenging and not kid appropriate, you can do the first section – up to and overlooking the lake. Trevor also took a day to hike to the Rob Roy Glacier in Mount Aspiring National Park, a feat he’d been planning for. His photos were stunning and his take is that he’d absolutely recommend.
• SHOP: Wanaka is filled with boutique stores and adventure outfitters. Stroll the downtown and pop into my favorites, Revology Concept Store and Gifted Design Store. Or, if it’s a rainy day and you have little ones to occupy, head over to the National Transport and Toy Museum (and shop), where you can burn plenty of time oohing and ahhing (and shopping).

Mount Cook

Our longest drive would take us from Wanaka to Kaikoura, and to break up the ride, we decided to detour to Mount Aoraki (Mount Cook) for one night. The tallest peak in New Zealand, towering more than 12,000 feet, it’s a sight to behold. Paths for walking and hiking, and a small mountain-base village account for Mount Aoraki; it’s not much in terms of a hot spot, but it’s downright awe inspiring.

We drove into the park for a quick lunch The Hermitage Hotel’s casual cafe and bar before hiking roughly an hour toward the mountain’s base. Sweeping views and gushing glacial river were just the tip of the literal iceberg, but it was all we had time for given nap schedules.

Fortunately, the views and drive alone are worth the excursion. We had to put the car in park while a herd of sheep ambled past us in the road, but soon, we were back on our way toward Lake Tekapo, where we had booked the Tractor Shed Airbnb on the edge of Mount Aoraki’s International Dark Sky Preserve.

Trevor grabbed steaks to grill from the local market and we settled into the barn-style party house for one night. (The kids loved it. Had we known literally anyone else in New Zealand, we would’ve called them over to party!) In the morning, we grabbed a delicious breakfast at The Greedy Cow Cafe before walking to the lovely stone Church of the Good Shepard and taking in the views.

Kaikoura

While our last visit to New Zealand took us up to the tip of the Southern Island (hello, Malborough Region and all your delightful sauvignon blanc!), this journey didn’t take us further than Kaikoura, a quaint and quirky ocean side town appreciated for its mountain views and abundant sealife.

Not only did Trevor experience a rainbow at sunrise while boating alongside a pod of dolphins (cue the symphony), the entire family bore witness to a trio of orcas – or killer whales – swimming insanely close to the shore on our way home from the playground one evening. THAT is the magic of Kaikoura.

Our Airbnb was located 10 minutes out of town, with windows that looked back at the mountains behind us, and a field that we could walk through to access an empty and ethereal black-sand beach. We built a bonfire pit one night, soaking up sunset skies and feeling like we’d found the edge of the world.

If you’re craving solitude and sea… and lobster, this is your place.

• EAT: Along the water, you’ll find wine and light fare at The Store, which offers fantastic views, outdoor seating and space to run. Keep driving to find seaside crayfish (otherwise known as lobster) at Karaka Lobster and the iconic Nin’s Bin. Don’t be fooled by their roadside style; you’re still going to pay nearly $100 USD for a lobster tail… but it will be worth it. Try the “gone wild” menu at Black Rabbit Pizza for a taste of the unfamiliar (think wild rabbit loin and roasted kangaroo).
• HIKE: The Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway is one of those remarkable paths that make you want to return again and again. Walk up the cliffside, along the cliff itself – wind whipping – and then down and along the rocky coast, an explorer’s delight as its peppered with strange seaweeds baked in the sun.
• DO: Kid-friendly adventure can feel like an oxymoron sometimes. Both Trevor and I sought to book days to ourselves routinely, and one of Trevor’s most memorable activities across our seven-month trip was swimming with the dolphins in Kaikoura. He booked through Dolphin Encounters, which focuses on safe, humane and eco-friendly excursions. His started well before the crack of dawn, but treated him a once-in-a-lifetime sunrise, rainbow overhead, as he swam alongside pods of playful dolphins.

New Zealand may not be the easiest destination to get to from the Midwest, but if you can find a way to travel slowly, soaking up the sights as you meander over its islands, I can promise that it will be an awakening experience. As they say on Sesame Street, “we’re different, we’re the same.” Culturally, New Zealand is a lot like the United States – English speaking, with a few stores that you’d recognize (K-mart!?!) and a strong economy – but it is indeed on the opposite side of the planet. Just as different as its Southern Hemisphere climate is the wonder-filled perspective that you’re guaranteed to leave with.